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Chowki is madly ambitious for a restaurant in this price range, with a menu that changes every month to take on three new regional cuisines of India. The result is that, while there is an occasional disappointment, this remains one of the most exciting and innovative places to dine in this part of London without having to get a second mortgage. Some safe curry-house options are available - and invariably prepared with a home-cooked care that's a world away from Brick Lane - but taking a leap into the regional dishes always makes for a thrilling journey through new combinations of spices, meats, fish and vegetables. There are often a couple of things in your order that are shockingly foreign, but that is part of the fun. Not just a great budget restaurant, but a great restaurant at any price.